travel tips

By Theadora Brack—

As a fashion fanatic, I’m always on the prowl for shopping nooks in Paris. For the love of precious time, I hate making the trek for just one boutique. I’m no diva, but I do like to shop-hop without a lot of hassle.

This week, we’re in luck! I’ve recently discovered a neat string of funky designer shops and studios along rue d’Orsel in Montmartre, so grab your hat and button your pea coat. We’re off to the races!

1. Zélia, at Sur la Terre Comme au Ciel
47 rue d’Orsel, 18th arrondissement (Metro Abbesses)

Zélia Le Doyen kicked off rue d’Orsel’s revival when she set up shop here a few years ago. Soon other designers followed suit. Each boutique has the feel of an oversized closet in Barbie’s dream house. But this time around, the clothes fit! Sewing machines and chitchat abound! I always find the designers to be friendly and accessible.

Need a custom-made hat, vest, or ball gown fashioned in a day? It’s not a problem, as Zélia’s staff is willing to work straight through the night when duty calls. Decked out in flying putti, satin slippers and ruby red chairs, along with a Michelangelo-worthy mural that pays homage to the birth of dress creation, watch out for the scissors-wielding cherub hovering near the ceiling!

2. Marie, at Le Boudoir de Marie
47 rue d’Orsel, 18th arrondissement (Metro Abbesses)

Looking very much like a curvaceous Bettie Mae Page with a classic French twist, the charismatic Marie Cazenave at the Boudoir De Marie spins handmade lingerie like no other. For months I’ve been admiring her work. It’s worth mentioning that she recently showcased a matching set of unmentionables made of rosy toile de Jouy.

Marie-Antoinette would have lost her head in this shop! I sure did.

Feeling all pin-upitty? Don’t you dare walk away without taking a sneak peak at Marie’s retro-diving, lacy-racy baby doll sets, chemises and gowns, along with bras, corsets and turbans. Mad Men fans, your hourglass day has come!

3. Kitty, at Killy Grind
47 rue d’Orsel, 18th arrondissement (Metro Abbesses)

Clipping from Holly Golightly: If I could find a place to make me feel like the Killy Grind shop, then I’d buy some Ikea furniture and give the cat a name! Boasting rockabilly couture, along with accessories and vintage clothing treasures, Kitty’s dream team can often be seen working at their sewing machines. It’s all about the process, Cheapos!

Also, watch out for the shop’s mascot dog, Boobie! She’s a looker, too.

Got a hankering for more vintage clothing?

Le Grenier d’Orsel is also located at 47 rue d’Orsel, sandwiched in-between the designer shops. Still want more? Then backtrack it to Metro Abbesses. Nearby, you’ll find Le Caverne à Fripes at 25 rue Houdon. Patrick Lambert’s collection is always affordable and eclectic!

Also, along the way, keep your eyes peeled for the vintage clothing shop at 86 rue des Martyrs. Tip: The name of this shop changes with the wind, so let the stacks of vintage clothing and hand-written signs in the window be your guide.

Ready for a break?

Try a croissant or a pain au chocolat pastry (or three!) at Au Levain d’Antan at 6 rue des Abbesses. Flashback! Last year, Pascal Barillon of Au Levain d’Antan won the “Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris.”

Tip two: Every blue moon, the ladies that run this shop can be a tad crabby. But don’t take it personally. Just rise to the occasion, and savor each chocolate morsel and flake like there’s no tomorrow.

Carpe diem, Cheapos!

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By Jessica Colley—

The craft beer craze hasn’t caught on in Ireland. At pubs in Dublin, it’s all about the classics. If you ask the barman for a pint, you will get a pint of Guinness. Beyond the black stuff, there are a couple other Irish beers of note, and a few hot drinks that are the perfect companion for a rainy day.

Here is a guide to Irish beer and drinks. And remember: if you order at the bar, there’s no need to tip the bartender. Keep your change.

Guinness

Ireland’s most famous stout, Guinness Draught, is brewed right in city center Dublin. Often called the “milkshake of beers” Guinness is known for its rich, creamy head and hint of chocolate. Remember to be patient when ordering a pint – the perfect Guinness takes time to pour – but it’s worth the wait. Walk into any pub in Dublin and you will see a lot of locals drinking the black stuff (and they always wait for it to settle before taking that heavenly first sip).

Alternative Irish stouts: Beamish stout, Murphy’s Irish Stout

Smithwick’s

Smithwick’s Irish Ale is even older than Guinness. This smooth ale dates back to the 14th century and is produced in the oldest operating brewery in Ireland. While many of the best known Irish beers are stouts, Smithwick’s is the biggest ale producer in the country. If you find Guinness a little heavy (especially after the first one or two) switch to Smithwick’s for something lighter, but still flavorful.

Harp Lager

On a sunny day in Dublin, grab an outdoor table at a pub and sip on a refreshing Harp lager. This crisp beer is a light alternative to heavy Irish stouts. This smooth, light beer doesn’t have the same history as Guinness or Smithwick’s – it’s only been around since 1960 – but it’s a tasty Irish alternative to other foreign lagers on tap.

Irish Coffee

If you happen to be in Dublin on a rainy day, there is nothing more satisfying than an Irish coffee. This mix of hot coffee, Irish whiskey, and brown sugar topped with a thick layer of cream will warm you up on more than one level. Don’t over-stir the concoction – simply sip the coffee through the cream.

Irish Whiskey Punch (or a Hot Toddy)

Another traditional drink – often enjoyed when you have a case of the sniffles – is an Irish Whiskey Punch or Hot Toddy. Irish Whiskey is mixed with hot water, brown sugar, cloves, and lemon, resulting in one steaming, soothing drink.

When in Dublin, go local. Drink Irish beers and whiskey, eat Irish cheese, and don’t leave without sampling local smoked salmon and roasted lamb. Preferably with a pint of Guinness on the side.

Your favorite pour? What do you order when you cozy up to the bar at a Dublin pub? Share your advice in our comments section.

Also in our guide: Heading to Dublin and looking for a great affordable hotel? Our editors have hunted down the best cheap hotels in Dublin, from hostels to three-star hotels, all centrally-located, clean and cheap. Read more in our Dublin hotel guide.

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Because the French railway network extended its tentacles only slowly north from Paris to the ports, there was a spell in the mid-19th century when the Channel port of Boulogne remained conspicuously isolated from the rest of France. Brits could get there easily from London, using the new rail routes to the Kent coast and then continuing by steamer.

But onward travel through France was slow and so, for a generation of Brits, this little fragment of France abutting the English Channel was the only portion of the country that they really knew.

The Nord / Pas-de-Calais region

But what a lovely corner of France it was… and still is today. Its charms are too easily overlooked by British travelers today, whose arrival in France is often all-too-hurried. They are too intent to rush on, keen to head south to the Dordogne or Provence. Insofar as they stop at all in the Calais or Boulogne region, it is usually only on the way home and then merely to load the car with the cheap wine that has become the Brits’ favorite import from France.

Viewed from the perspective of Paris, and even more so from the salons of the Riviera, the cities and ports of the far north of France are still seen as impossibly remote. It’s a sentiment nicely captured in the hugely successful film Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis (“Welcome to the Sticks”). “North of Paris lie only the boondocks,” says our Avignon friend, going on to recount stories of pungent Maroilles cheese, cauliflowers and mining communities in terminal decline. Such are the prejudices of one too pampered by life in the sunny south.

Visiting Boulogne

So we told her that was nonsense and hopped on the next train to Boulogne, the one-time ferry port that once thrived on its links with Britain. The cross-Channel steamers have gone, now focusing their commercial efforts on Calais just 35 km up the coast. And, without the day trippers, that makes Boulogne all the more enjoyable.

The local tourism authorities still have a sharp eye on the British market, ever conscious that in terms of travel time Boulogne and Calais are closer to London than they are to Paris. “Real France, real close” run the ads prepared for the UK market.

Boulogne highlights

And this is real France, for Brits just a quick hop from London with Eurostar or a pleasant 90-minute cruise from Dover on P&O’s magnificent ferries.

Boulogne in particular is something special. We wandered the Gambetta Quai each morning, which boasts a superb fish market. And each evening we ate fresh fish in whatever manner Tony Lestienne favored that day. Lestienne is the most accomplished of chefs in a town with a rich culinary tradition. If you eat at the La Matelote restaurant, you are in for a treat. But if budgets are tight, head to the restaurant in the nearby Nausicáa Centre, where Monsieur Lestienne runs the in-house catering.

With its ramparts, walled Old Town and maze of narrow streets, Boulogne is pure France. And there are enough sights to detain you for three or four days.

The castle museum is a gem, with its oddly eclectic mix of exhibits. The range runs from a hall devoted to the funereal rites of Ancient Egypt through a stunning collection of Alaskan masks to delicately beautiful paintings of local Opale Coast beaches and dunescapes.

The big-draw sight in town is of course Nausicáa, an aquarium and environmental education center that lies on the northern fringes of town. It is justifiably celebrated.

Riding the coast: North to Calais

We left by bus, taking the morning local service up the coast to Calais. This is a roller coaster of a route that takes in cliffs and bays aplenty, the entire run enlivened by wonderful views of the white cliffs of the Kent coast just across the Channel. It is a good reminder that this is a corner of France whose fortunes have been forever shaped by its proximity to England.

Getting to Boulogne

From England, we strongly recommend the P&O ferry link from Dover to Calais. This is travel as it should be – relaxed, sedate and stylish. From Calais Port, it is an easy (if not exactly beautiful) hike into town to take one of the regular local trains from Calais Ville station to Boulogne.

Calais Ville station wins no prizes for grace or grandeur, but do take a few minutes to see Calais town hall, just south of the station. It is one of the most strikingly beautiful buildings in all of Flanders.

The rail route from Calais down to Boulogne runs inland, which means that you will only get occasional glimpses of the sea. So you might consider taking the none-too-frequent local bus service that departs from the Place d’Armes in Calais and hugs the coast all the way down to Boulogne. (Just note: No Sunday services on that bus route.)

From London St Pancras (and for that matter also from Brussels Midi), there are Eurostar trains direct to Calais Fréthun, in each case with a travel time of just one hour, where you can walk down to the very spartan local platform for the onward train to Boulogne. Calais to Boulogne takes just 30 minutes.

And if you are in France and can overcome local prejudices about the far, far north, you’ll find great rail connections from Paris to Boulogne. We recommend the line via Amiens, used by classic old-style but very comfortable InterCité trains, which take about 2hrs 45mins for the journey.

There are also five-times-daily TGV services which speed from Paris to Boulogne in just over two hours. The route they take is less immediately appealing than the more traditional Amiens line, but you do get some nice views of the landscapes of Picardie and Flanders.

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By Bryan Pirolli in Paris—

Paris is known for its café culture – lounging on a terrace all day long with a good book, some writing, and fantastic people watching. But when it comes to the actual café, the consensus among coffee-enthusiasts is that Paris doesn’t really brew the best cup of joe in Europe.

Blame the beans, blame the roasting, blame the machines, but the Parisian café takes a back seat to powerful and delicious Italian ristrettos or perfect Scandinavian lattes (who knew the Danish were so good at making coffee to go with their own national pastry?). It’s not that Parisian coffee is undrinkably bad; but, honestly, it wouldn’t take much to make it better.

Coffee snobs, however, fear not. In the past few years, there has been a coffee revolution with the opening of coffee shops selecting better quality beans, roasting locally, and properly pulling shots from some serious equipment. Whether you’re pining for your favorite New York coffee shop or a proper flat white from London, you can now find the cure in Paris without breaking the bank – too badly, at least.  Here are some of the addresses to test.

Caféothèque
52, rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, 75004
Metro: Pont Marie or Hotel de Ville

If you’re in the Marais, stop in at the Caféothèque, a shop that has been roasting beans in Paris since 2005. A cup of the café du jour will set you back €3, not the cheapest by Paris standards, but it’s sure to please. The seating area can get quite cozy on the weekends, but they are expanding next door, so keep an eye out for more spots soon. They also have some pastries, but maybe stick with the coffee.

Kooka Boora
62, rue des Martyrs, 75009
Metro : Pigalle, Notre Dame de Lorette or Anvers

Kooka Boora, by trendy rue des Martyrs, is a relative newcomer to the coffee scene. With outdoor seating and superb people watching, their coffee is serious business.  Their filtered brew is fantastic and flavorful, unlike anything you’ll find at the corner café, and at €2.50 for an espresso, it’s not that much more expensive. If you’re hungry, the cakes aren’t bad and worth a splurge.

Coutume Café
47, rue de Babylone, 75007
Metro: Sèvres Babylone

During a brunch at the newest place to obsess over coffee, I fell for Coutume Café and their rich café allongé. Tucked away in the 7th arrondissement it’s not in the center of activity, but for a weekend brunch it could be worth the venture. The pastries and brunch burrito goes down fantastically with one – if not three – of their house-roasted coffees.

Le Bal Café
6, Impasse de la Défense, 75018
Metro: Place de Clichy

If you’re looking for good coffee off the beaten track, just head west of Montmartre towards Place de Clichy. Just north of the bustling square is Le Bal Café. Stop inside or on the terrace with a friend and split a small pot of locally-roasted filtered coffee for €5. They even have photo exhibits for culture-seekers or scones and pastries for, well, the rest of us.

Hopefully more quality coffee spots will open up in more arrondissements, in the near future, but the choices remain limited at the moment.  If you’re an even bigger coffee snob that imaginable, you might just want to save yourself the pain, pack some beans, and buy a souvenir French press for your hotel.

Or just drink tea.

Your favorite shot?

Do you have a favorite café to add to our list? Do you disagree with our entire post and find the coffee served in Paris’ cafés to be perfect as is? Share your thoughts in our comments section.

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By Nina Derham in London—

Once you’ve pounded the streets of London visiting museums and emptying your wallet at the shops, you’ll likely be in need of some fresh air. Cambridge makes for an ideal getaway from the hectic buzz of London and, best of all, it is easily doable in a day.

Getting to Cambridge from London

Fast trains leave from London Kings Cross to Cambridge twice an hour and the journey takes just 45 minutes. You can also catch the train from Liverpool Street Station, which takes 1 hour 10 minutes. For the best value train fare, travel off-peak (after 9:30 a.m). Book online.

As one of the world’s most famous and prestigious university towns, Cambridge has a sense of pride about it. The streets are clean and pretty much everything is aesthetically pleasing. The city has something for you year round, whether you plan to explore the great outdoors in the summer months or huddle up by an open fire in one of the city’s beautiful old pubs (of which there are about 119).

That famous University…

Most visitors will want to explore Cambridge University‘s stunning buildings, which are dotted all over the city. Cheapos should be warned, many of the most famous colleges do charge to get inside, meaning that spending the day ducking in and out of University buildings could cost a small fortune.

My advice to travelers on a budget is to admire the fantastic architecture from the outside and get a feel for things by wandering around some of the free colleges as well. Trinity College is the largest in Cambridge and offers free admission. Thus, be sure to visit Trinity’s spacious courtyard and have a snoop at how these most privileged of students live. (It certainly doesn’t bear much resemblance to my university halls!)

If you are willing to spend to visit one building, King’s College is the place to do it (admission from £7.50). Head to the back entrance to gain access to the magnificently Gothic King’s College Chapel for Evensong.

Alternatively, Clare College is just next door and visitors can explore the grounds at no cost at all. Stroll through the college and out into The Backs for a peaceful roam around the University gardens and along the River Cam.

Be warned that visitors aren’t allowed into the University buildings during the examination period from the end of April – mid June. However, you can still access the King’s College Chapel during this time.

Beyond the University make time to stop by the wonderfully quirky and hobbit-like Round Church. Also admire the view from Magdalene Bridge and have a look around the lively central market.

Punting in Cambridge

Popular with students, locals and tourists alike, punting along the River Cam comes highly recommended even during the chilly winter months. Grab a spot in one of the long wooden punts from £15 with a chauffeur. Alternatively, groups of up to six people can rent their own punt from £18 per hour and make their own way around.

Do be warned though Cheapos: If you haven’t been punting before, it is harder than it looks! Savings are to be had if you book online in advance.

Eating and drinking

Mill Road is a favorite with students and is packed with affordable eateries serving up food from all around the world, from Brazil to Lebanon.

Alternatively, try one of Cambridge’s lively pubs, which are bursting with character day and night:

The Eagle (8 Benet Street) is a remarkable slice of traditional pub life, with multiple dining rooms lined with wood paneling. It is also famous for being the spot were Francis Crick and James Watson went to celebrate following their discovery of DNA in 1953.

The Castle Inn (36 Castle Street) is a really welcoming pub with open fires and lots of cozy corners. It’s a little bit off the main drag but well worth the walk.

If you’re feeling extravagant or celebrating a special occasion then The Cambridge Chop House is the place to do it. The menu is bursting with mouthwatering steaks, stews and perfectly cooked fish. You can even opt for squirrel if you’re feeling daring before jumping on the train back to London.

For more information on Cambridge see Visit Britain or the official Cambridge tourism website.

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Railways breed euphemisms. We always smile when we hear railway staff at London’s Paddington station refer to “the lawn.” There is nothing green about the lawn, but that’s what they call the concrete concourse where travelers gather, scanning the list of upcoming departures, at the inward end of the platforms.

Another old Paddington euphemism, one we have not heard for many a year, is the habit of alluding to Platform 1 as “the departure stage.” In the 19th century, that was where the premium trains departed. It’s a nice phrase, a happy reminder that there is still something theatrical about leaving a grand railway station. Departures deserve a little drama.

All stops on the Piccadilly Line

Visitors to London are spoiled for choice when it comes to getting out to Heathrow. But let’s face it. There’s not much drama if you ride the tube, en route swapping subterranean gloom for London’s leafy western suburbs. There are an awful lot of intermediate stops and it’s a challenge to work up any great enthusiasm for the architectural charms of South Ealing, Northfields or Boston Manor.

Or 15 minutes of theatre

But the Heathrow Express does have a touch of the dramatic about it. It is a great alternative to the slow grind on the Piccadilly line. Trains run every 15 minutes and the travel time from Paddington to Heathrow Terminals 1, 2 and 3 is just 15 minutes. (Trips to slightly further distant Terminals 4 and 5 take a little longer.) And the run out from Paddington to the airport offers 15 minutes of theatre.

You catch glimpses of some very engaging architecture along the way, from the assertively modern Paddington Basin development to sedate Victorian suburbs like Ealing. There is art deco style (watch out for the EMI plant at Hayes), a water tower disguised as a castle (near Southall) and wonderful reminders of London’s multicultural character.

Just before Southall station, on the left and easily identifiable from its golden dome, is the largest Sikh temple in Europe. And the station signs at Southall station are in both Punjabi and English. This is “Bend it like Beckham” country and a chance to catch a glimpse of quite another London from that which features in the regular tourist guides.

A changing London

Times have changed since the great 19th-century engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel built this fine route out from Paddington to the west. The new branch off to Heathrow is a mere youthful upstart.

But until the moment, usually about 11 minutes out from Paddington, when you branch off from Brunel’s main line to burrow underground to Heathrow, you’ll get an eyeful of classic railway architecture. There is Wharncliffe Viaduct, a feast of brick and Georgian elegance that just oozes style.

Heathrow Connect for slow-motion replay

There are some journeys that we just wish would take a little longer. This is one of them. Heathrow Express is a premium service, but it is a visual feast. Part of the appeal is the kaleidoscope of images seen at speed.

If you want a slow motion re-run, then note that Heathrow Express has a slower sibling that makes the same journey at a more moderate pace. It is called Heathrow Connect and the fares are a little cheaper.

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By Regina W. Bryan in Barcelona—

Like any major tourist destination, Barcelona has its share of attractions that promise too much, but deliver too little… while usually draining your budget. These, my friends, are called “tourist traps.” They’re usually easy to spot (just look for crowds of tourists with nary a local in sight), but their allure can still be too great for even the most seasoned traveler.

Here’s my list of five attractions I’d steer clear of in Barcelona. Be strong!

1. La Rambla

You probably should stroll down La Rambla at least once if it’s your first time to the city. Once is enough. La Rambla is a thorn in many a local’s side, and all the junky souvenir shops selling Mexican hats and exorbitant restaurants serving hangover-producing “sangria” make me cringe, to say nothing of all the ladies working it once the sun goes down. (Fellas, they will steal your wallet while feeling you up, you have been warned.)

Stroll it and then avoid it, and by no means stop to play any of the games that are offered by clever con artists on the famous strip.

2. Flamenco and Dinner

We’re not in Andalusia, which means were not in flamenco country. skip most of the shows you read about on flyers or posters. There are a couple places to see flamenco in Barcelona, and one of them is Jazz Si in El Raval.

Avoid any “flamenco” shows in the center. A great flamenco festival is in Barcelona now through March called De Cajón, and I would recommend any of the shows that are on that ticket. Note that none of them come with dinner.

3. Sangria

I don’t know if sangria qualifies a tourist trap per se, but it isn’t anything a local would drink. I’ve never ordered sangria here, apart from the first week I arrived six years ago. That once was enough to know that there is no good reason to drink very cheap wine with even cheaper hard alcohol mixed into it.

However, “cava sangria” is popular in Barcelona and I would recommend trying a glass or a pitcher of it. Unlike traditional sangria, cava sangria is made with white cava or rose cava (sparkling wine), and usually has less fruit in it.

4. Restaurants with lots of pictures of the food posted outside

As a rule I avoid these places with, often times, hideous food photos. If the menu is in 20 languages, I also tend to go somewhere else. Why? Because they are probably catering to a tourist crowd, which means the prices will be a lot higher. Go for the place with the menu in Catalan and Spanish and use your dictionary while saving money.

5. The single transit ticket

This year the price of a single ticket on the metro or bus jumped to €2 from about €1.40. Is this aimed at tourists? I can’t say, but it sure has upset locals. Most of us who take public transport buy a “T10″ or “50/30,” which are not as expensive. Get a T10 and avoid paying single tickets. If you’re going to be here for a month, then get the 50/30 which gives you 50 rides in 30 days.

Bonus Tips:

I also want to add on a couple of touristy things that look like traps but that I think are pretty good deals.

The Bus Turístic is one of these. It’s a super way to get your bearings and recover from jet lag.

Bike taxis also seem like tourist traps, but I think they are a nice addition to Barcelona’s transportation options. I have never taken a bike taxi, but believe a ride in one would be an ideal way to see the seashore.

Open your trap!

Wondering about other traps in Barcelona? Just ask in our comments section! Have you given in to any of the traps mentioned here? Tell us about your experience!

Also in our guide: Heading to Barcelona soon? Check out our reviews of the best cheap hotels in Barcelona, all visited, inspected and reviewed by EuroCheapo’s editors. We assure you, none of our recommended hotels is a tourist trap! Read more in our Barcelona hotel guide.

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EuroCheapo is pleased (and somewhat surprised) to announce the launch of guides to cheap hotels in Geneva and Zurich.

For years we’ve steered clear of these pricey cities (and the country in general), assuming that Switzerland was simply inhospitable to budget travelers. With many hotels starting north of $250, how could any Cheapo afford to visit?

It’s the kind of budget travel challenge we love, however. After pounding the (immaculately clean) pavement in both cities, we’re thrilled to announce our new guides. Here are a few things we found along the way:

Hotel prices

We found several Geneva hotels under $125 a night, (CHF 125) including some in the heart of the Old Town. Visit during the spring and fall for the lowest rates, and remember that, as Geneva’s hotels are often packed with business travelers, weekends tend to be cheaper.

Although Zurich can even be more expensive than Geneva, we found 10 central hotels in Zurich with rates under $130 a night (CHF 130), including some three-star hotels. Rates are similarly cheaper during the shoulder season and weekends, and clear of convention dates. (Check out the convention schedule ahead of time on Zurich’s Web site.)

Easy ways to save

We were happy to find that most museums in Geneva charge less than CHF 10 (about $10) for admission, and many charged quite a bit less. Even better, as we note in our budget tips article, many museums are free to enter, including the Maison Tavel, Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, Musée de Carouge and the Natural History Museum!

Zurich’s museums are surprisingly affordable, with most charging about CHF 10-15 (about $10-15). However, we recommend that serious sightseers spring for the ZurichCARD, which covers admission to all city museums and public transportation, and even offers some shopping and dining discounts. Read more in our Zurich budget tips article.

Transportation savings

Geneva’s efficient public transit is a gift to budget travelers: Anyone staying in a hotel, hostel or campground is given a Geneva Transport Card, granting free transportation on the city’s buses, trams and trolleys. Read more about getting around Geneva.

Zurich charges CHF 5.20 (about $5) for a daily transportation pass (or CHF 25.60 for six days, about $25), although many sights are accessibly by foot. However, Cheapos are encouraged to hop on Zurich’s free bike program. Pedal off some of that delicious rösti! (Read more about Zurich transportation.)

So, Cheapos…

What are you waiting for? With a little advance planning, both Geneva and Zurich can be on your budget travel itinerary. There’s simply no reason to miss Swiss.

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By Bryan Pirolli in Paris—

Vahram Muratyan’s book Paris vs. New York: A Tally of Two Cities has been making quite an impression on big city dwellers. Debuting at Colette last year in Paris and launching in February in New York, the book visually chronicles the comparisons and contrasts between both iconic cities. Images illustrate the cultural showdown, like the macaron versus the cupcake, the baguette versus the bagel, or the bobo versus the hipster.

Recently images form the new book have been making waves across social media sites, particularly Muratyan’s map of Paris that replaces arrondissements with New York neighborhoods.

For those who know both cities, the comparisons are uncanny, so I thought it might be fun to see which ones are spot-on and which ones seem like a stretch:

1. Bastille – Bowery, East Village: Spot on.

The young, artsy, still up-and-coming Bastille neighborhood where the Revolution ceremoniously began (well, for some) reflects the same vibe you get walking through the gentrifying East Village – although Bastille is much better serviced by the subway system.

2. Marais – West Village, Chelsea: Spot on.

The quirky gay-friendly Marais has all of the vivacity of Chelsea and the West Village, with pricey boutiques to match.

3. Latin Quarter – Greenwich Village, NYU: Stretch.

50 years ago it would have been true, but besides being student neighborhoods, the Latin Quarter feels much more like a tourist trap than the Village. It’s a place where students occasionally study and party, with none of the urban campus vibe of NYU where thousands of students actually live.

4. Montmartre – Gramercy: Spot on.

Severely gentrified since its Belle Epoque bohemian days (think Moulin Rouge) Montmartre, much like Gramercy Park, is a charming place that most people just look at with so few possessing the keys (read: money) to truly access this neighborhood.

5. Passy – Upper West Side: Stretch.

Young people live in and like the Upper West Side. Some young people live in Passy, but no one likes it.

6. Champs Elysées – Times Square: Spot on.

Both are equally avoided by locals. At all cost.

7. Arc de Triomphe – Washington Square: Stretch.

We get the similarities, but the Beatniks and students at the Washington Square arch have nothing in common with the Napoleonic greatness of the military-inspired Arc de Triomphe.

8. Choissy – Chinatown: Spot on.

Porte de Choissy is Paris’s liveliest Chinatown, though New  York’s version is even more vibrant.

9. Saint-Germain – Upper East Side: Stretch.

While they share similar qualities like museums and old rich people, Saint-Germain has many redeeming ones for locals, including great restaurants, boutiques, and endless café culture. The Upper East Side has redeeming qualities as well.  Just give me a few minutes…

10. Louvre – The Met, Union Square: Stretch.

Two big museums, OK, it was necessary. But I’m not sure about the Union Square comparison aside from the skateboarders.

11. Opéra – Theatre District: Spot on.

Locals and visitors alike flock to the area around the Opéra for a night of ballet, music, or comedy in one of the many smaller venues that fuels Paris’s theater scene. Even though theaters are found all over the city, the majestic Opéra Garnier and its little brother the nearby Opéra Comique are two of the most popular.

Your comparisons? So urban dwellers, what do you think about the comparisons between these cities?

A bit of humor...


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Okay, chances are you know quite a bit about the fabulous range of rail passes which are available for exploring Europe. From Eurail and InterRail to BritRail and a great range of locally sold passes within individual countries, those keen to roam the rails are spoilt for choice.

But for bus fiends, devotees of road transport who feel inclined to coach the highways of Europe, most rail passes are of little help (although some locally sold passes, such as the Explore Wales pass, do usefully combine road and rail transport).

Easy connections by road

But if trains are not your thing, or you just fancy trying something different why not opt for a pass to explore the Eurolines coach network?

If you don’t know about Eurolines, check out our article earlier this month which gave a few key facts on why coach travel can be a credible alternative to taking the train on many European journeys.

From €175 for 15 days

Current pass prices start at €175 for 15 days of unlimited low-season travel between major cities in two dozen countries across the Eurolines network. That fare holds for anyone aged under 26. For older travelers, the fare for the same 15-day pass edges up to €205. 30-day passes are also available, with the current adult pass costing €310. All passes carry premium prices during high season.

Critics of the Eurolines pass have often argued that the scheme emphasizes larger cities at the expense of smaller places (although Eurolines’ dense network really does serve many out-of-the-way spots). The Eurolines consortium responded in 2011 by adding in a few secondary cities to the pass scheme. These newcomers include Rennes, Tours, Dijon, Nancy, Alicante and Kaunas.

From Ireland to the Baltic States

Once you have your pass, you can roam at will between cities included in the scheme. The geographical coverage is impressive, extending from Dublin and Edinburgh to Rome and Bucharest. Of course, you will need to change coaches on many long journeys.

Eurolines services are intended mainly for international journeys, but there are some domestic hops that can be booked by pass holders. Barcelona to Madrid is one, and Edinburgh to London another (though Catalonian and Scottish nationalists might well argue that both journeys are international in spirit).

Reserve seats in advance

Eurolines offers a hassle-free way of exploring principal cities across Europe in comfort, but a little advance planning pays off. All seats can be reserved, and on popular routes the coach can be full. So Eurolines strongly advise that travelers reserve each leg a few days in advance. Any specific sector can only be ridden twice during the validity of a pass.

You will find a wealth of further information, all very impressively ordered, at www.eurolines-pass.eu and www.eurolines.com/eurolines-pass/.

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